Exklusively Käfer Kabrioletts

The decision to buy a Volkswagen cabriolet is an easy one to make, but deciding which cabriolet to buy is another matter altogether. There are many choice, to be made, and many things to take into consideration. And, of course, there is the matter of how much money you can afford to spend. However, if there is one universal rule that should not be broken, it is this: do not buy the first car you see. Mind you, having said that the author is the first to admit that it is very difficult not to let your heart rule your head (and wallet) when you first set eyes on one of these cars of your dreams.





This might be the image of the cabriolet of your dreams ...




The first choice that has to be made is whether you wish to buy a Karmann cabriolet, a Hebmüller or a replica of one or the other. To be perfectly frank, you do not go shopping for a Hebmüller in quite the same way as you would a regular cabrio Beetle, for the Heb is very much a specialist collector's car and examples do not turn up in your local auto trade magazine. If your heart is set on something as rare and desirable as a Hebmüller, then be aware that the search could take you several years.
As there were so few built in the first place, and even fewer known survivors, the best advice is to make contact with some of the acknowledged vintage specialists in the VW scene. You should then let it be known that you are in the market for a Hebmüller and, sooner than you realise, word will begin to spread through the grapevine.

Buy each of the available Volkswagen magazines. In Britain, try VolksWorld, VW Motoring or the very specialist International Vintage Volkswagen Magazine, while in the USA look for Hot VWs and VW Trends. If you are able, obtain copies of other European Volkswagen publications, such as Super VW from France and VW Scene from Germany. These will give you a good idea of who specialises in vintage VWs and it may be worth contacting some of these companies to let them know that you are in the market for a Hebmüller. Do not expect, however, anyone to offer you a car straight away! It may pay you to place a 'Wanted' ad in each magazine stating that you are searching- for a car, or welcome all information about one that may be for sale. If this sounds rather value advice, then note that this is a reflection of the car's scarcity.





... but this might be the reality! However, even this is restorable.




Most Hebmüllers on offer fall into one of two categories: a perfect restoration or a 'basket case', euphemistically referred to as a restoration project. Buying the latter will, almost inevitably, cost you more in the long run as the accurate restoration of a Heb is an expensive proposition. All too often these project cars have been picked over by previous restorers and will have lost many, if not all, of the hard-to-find parts - the engine lid, for instance - that make a Hebmüller unique.
If you should happen to find the car of your dreams, then carefully check the body plate and chassis number to ascertain that the chassis is the correct one for the age of car. Many early Volkswagens have had the body refitted co a later chassis at some point in the past as an easy way to care rust and mechanical problems. While a later chassis may not spoil your driving enjoyment, be aware that it will significantly reduce the value of the car.






Buying a Karmann cabrio

It is probably more realistic to think in terms of the purchase of a Karmann cabriolet, for even quite early examples are easier to come by than a Hebmüller will ever be. There are several questions you must ask yourself, and answer. How old, or modern, a Karmann do you wish to buy? How often do you intend to use the car? If it is to be your sole means of transport, then the more modern the better. If, on the other hand, it is to be a fine weather runabout, then age is of less importance. Do you want to start with a restoration project, or own a car you can drive immediately? Are you particularly keen on owning a vintage cabriolet? Do you want right- or left-hand drive? Most important of all, how much can you afford to spend?





At first glance, the engine of this mid-1950s cabrio appears to be correct, but it is a later 34bhp unit with separate generator mounting. The voltage regulator should not be bolted to the fan housing.




Taking the last question first, it is important to set yourself a budget and stick to it. It is all too easy to get carried away in the heat of the moment and commit yourself to far greater expense than your finances allow. Take time to study magazine adverts and you will soon get some idea of what you will have to spend to buy a cabriolet. It will immediately become clear that very early cars are far more expensive than later ones, with 1970s models being the most reasonably priced of all. This is because the majority of them will have been supplied to the USA or Italy, where the late-model VW cabrio does not fetch such a premium.
Beware, though, as these imported cars are not automatically going to be sound, rust-free examples. Many cars to be found in the USA - especially states such as Florida - can be as rusty as their European counterparts. All too often, the interiors or the hoods will be damaged by prolonged exposure to sunlight. Italian imports are frequently very low specification with small 1200cc engines, designed to take advantage of vehicle taxation laws, which can make them seem very underpowered. Because cabriolets are not necessarily held in such high esteem in some countries, beware of poorly maintained examples.

Also familiarise yourself with the mechanical specification - many American models will have fuel-injected engines and catalytic converters. While fine when running well, injection can be troublesome and result in excessive fuel consumption or poor starting. The catalyst may need replacing through age, or be damaged a result of a past owner using leaded fuel.

In general, late-model cabriolets are not considered to have the charisma of their older brethren, but are still great fun to drive and probably far more practical. However, despite the fact that they are relatively easy to find, they still command significantly higher prices than a saloon model of an equivalent age. If you feel that a late-model cabriolet is right for you, then you still need to make a number of decisions. The first, and possibly most important, is, if you live in Britain or Australia, do you mind driving a left-hand drive car? Probably at least two-thirds of the cabrios offered for sale will be left-hand drive. Bear in mind that your insurance premium may be a little higher because of this and also that on some roads, specially if you live in a rural area with few dual carriageways, having the steering wheel on the 'wrong' side can make overtaking a hazardous business.

Next question: do you like the styling of the later, curved windscreen 1303 models? Many enthusiasts are not so smitten by this design, feeling that the 1303s lack the character of the flat-screen models. Others feel they look more powerful or purposeful. Certainly you will find no shortage of curved 'screen cabriolets on offer and their price will almost certainly be quite tempting. However, if you prefer the looks of the older cars, yet cannot afford a truly ancient example, then the best course of action would probably be to consider one of the later, flat-screen models built in the late 1960s or early '70s. The 1302-based cabrios, with their MacPherson strut front suspension and IRS rear, will be less expensive than the torsion bar models, but the more bulbous bonnet is not to everyone's taste. As the old adage so rightly says, 'you pays your money and you takes your choice'. Only you can decide what does and does not appeal to you.

Cars from the early to mid-1960s are possibly the nicest of all. They are well-built, have much of the visual appeal of the earlier cars, yet are not so mechanically fragile. A sound 1966 1300cc cabriolet in Ruby Red with a black hood, for example, would be a hard car to turn down if the price was right. Or how about a Beryl Green '62 with an Olive Green top? And as for good examples of the 1967 cabriolet, do not expect to find one going for a song. The '67 has become a collector's model, especially in the USA, as it is considered by many to be the last of the 'old' Beetles with its early-style bumpers and plain metal dashboard.

If your heart was allowed to rule your head, then chances are that you would probably rush out and buy the first 1950s cabriolet you could find. The problem is that it is becoming increasingly hard to find a sound example at a reasonable price. Remember, these cars are at least 35 years old and many will have been destroyed in accidents or scrapped through rust long before they became collectable, reducing the number available today. Unless 'your' car has been lovingly looked after all its life, or the subject of a documented restoration, you should probable prepare yourself for the worst when you start to investigate under those carpets or poke around under the back seat. Cabrios of all ages can rust like no other model.





Rust, the cabrio worst enemy



The problem, which is common to all cabriolets regardless of make, is that as soon as the roof becomes damaged in any way, the car is no longer weather-proof. The steady ingress of rain over the years, no matter how slight, will soon turn an otherwise sound car into a wreck unless the hood is repaired. This is the big problem with many US imports. The hot sun wreaks havoc with convertible tops, making them brittle and prone to splitting. It is a common misconception that it never rains in California, so surely the state of the hood does not really matter that much, does it? Well, sorry to disappoint you, but it does rain in California, not that often, granted, but it still rains (sometimes very heavily!). Any dampness that finds its way into a car and stays there will fairly soon turn itself into rust and that eventually turns itself into a problem - maybe your problem!





The nastier side of somebody else's attempted restoration, carelessly painted wiring and fuel tank mean more work for the new owner. At least the dashboard has not been cut around to accommodate extra gauges.




Rust is the greatest source of trouble in Volkswagen cabrios of all ages. However, the Beetle is one of the few cars which can genuinely be restored on a DIY basis and many repair panels are readily available, either as genuine VW parts or as quality repros. Panels such as wings, bonnet and engine lid are all simply bolted on and can be changed easily. However, do remember, especially when restoring a vintage cabrio, that genuine early panels are not easy to come by and it may take considerable time and effort to locate the correct parts.
The problems begin when the rust has taken hold of the structural areas of the car, such as the sills and heater channels. The only way to carry out effective repairs is to remove the body from the floorpan - not a difficult task as the body is simple bolted to the 'pan. However, the fun begins when the bolts are rusted, or the captive nuts turn and pull out of the body due to corrosion. The main problem with removing the cabriolet body is that all the strength lies in the sills - there is no steel roof to keep the body rigid once it is separated from the chassis. As the usual reason for removing the body, is to replace sills weakened by rust, then it is case to see the possible consequences: the body may simply collapse in the middle.

To prevent this from happening, wise restorers will weld temporary strengthening in place across the door openings, thus ensuring the body does not sag when lifted from the floorpan. Once the repairs have been carried out, these temporary measures can be removed and the remaining welds round smooth. It is also a wise move to take measurements across the door openings to ensure that everything lines up correctly when the body is reunited with the chassis, otherwise you may find the doors no longer close as well as they might. In fact, studying the door gaps on a cabriolet is a good way to assess its structural integrity. Irregular gaps are a likely indication of hidden rust or poor repairs.

Early cars can be a problem when it comes to authenticity as, like the Hebmüller, many had their chassis swapped for a later one as a simple cure for rust. It is not uncommon for the older models to have lost their correct rear lights, for example. or perhaps even their correct wings. Cars that originally came with 16in diameter wheels had wings that were a different shape from those with 15in wheels. As the larger diameter tyres became less easy to find, many early '50s cabrios were fitted with incorrect 15in rims to make tyre selection easier. Finding a correct set of wings and wheels may take time, and will certainly cost money.






Checking the mechanicals



Mechanically, the older the car, the less robust it will tend to be, although that is not to say that a well-maintained engine is not capable of many years of active service. After all, Volkswagens did not earn their reputation for reliability, without good reason. Cars that were originally fitted with a 25bhp engine may well have been upgraded at some point with a 30bhp motor, or maybe even a much more modern 34bhp unit. Although similar in appearance, there are several detail (read expensive!) differences between the 25- and 30-horse motors. For example, finding a pre-1953 air-cleaner will keep you occupied for quite a while.





One of the decisions you need to make is whether to buy a standard vehicle or one that has been modified. If you decide on the latter, make sure that any alterations have been carried out tastefully to a high-standard, as here.




The parts to rebuild these early engines are becoming more scarce, especially bearings, cylinders and pistons. There are specialists, principally in Germany and the USA, who carry stocks of most parts, but be aware that they are neither cheap nor plentiful. Many parts have been reproduced, including exhaust and heater systems, so unless you insist on only using NOS (New Old Stock) parts, you should be able to keep your car fit and well for man years to come.
The later 34bhp specialistic are very reliable units and spares for these are not hard to find. The only causes for concern are items such as the correct air filter or distributor. The same holds true for the 1300 and 1500 engines, which are also very, reliable and provide a useful injection of power into what has always been a slightly under-powered model, thanks to the cabrio's greater weight compared with that of the saloon.

It is only when it comes to the later 1600cc engines that troubles can begin. Some examples, particularly those fitted to the 1303s, did have a reputation for burning a hole in number 3 piston due, in part, to lean carburettor jetting and incorrectly set ignition timing. The author, clearly recalls, back in the mid-1970s, witnessing no fewer than five cars with burned pistons arriving at his local workshop in a space of ten days. Their owners were somewhat dismayed to learn the hard way that not everything in life was always as reliable as it might be...

On the whole, the Volkswagen engine, regardless of capacity and age, is a very dependable unit just so long as the owner is aware that it needs to have regular oil changes and, despite what the factory used to say, does not take kindly to being driven flat-out for long distances on the motorway. Remember, unless it has had a rebuild, the engine in even the latest cabriolet is going to be over 15 years old.

The transmissions rarely give trouble, but again it is wise to be aware of the need for regular oil changes. The very first cars came without synchromesh of any kind and can be fun or frustrating to drive, depending on your outlook. Some people find it hard to acclimatise to nonsynchro, or 'crash', gearboxes, especially if they have been brought up on modern fully-synchromesh transmissions. The secret is to take your time when changing up - teaching yourself to pause for a moment in neutral before selecting the next gear is half the battle. Any attempt to carry out a fast gear change will almost certainly result in a distinctly embarrassing 'crunch' as the teeth fail to mesh properly.






One thing that virtually all the aftermarket conversions lack is the wind-down rear side windows of the Karmann cabrio. Details like this set the genuine article apart from the rest of the field.




Changing down requires greater patience, or the gentle art of double-declutching. Here, the driver presses the clutch, moves the gear lever into neutral, releases the clutch and simultaneously 'blips' the throttle before pressing the clutch once again and selecting the required gear. The purpose of this is to match the gear speed to the road speed. Sadly, it is an art which is little taught these days, for it gives the driver a great deal of satisfaction to be able to execute a swift downward change without crunching gears and can be particularly useful when there is the need to drop down a gear when climbing a steep hill. Practice, as in all things, makes perfect.
The arrival of synchromesh on all models (except the Standard saloon) in October 1952 made the Volkswagen considerably easier to drive. The only thing to remember here is not to select first gear until the car is at rest as synchromesh was only fitted to the top three gears. All early transmissions are noisy compared with their later counterparts, so do not worry unnecessarily about a little whine from the rear end. However, if there is a deep whining which comes and goes as you lift on and off the throttle, then it may be that the final drive (crown wheel and pinion) is on the way out. This in itself may not be reason enough to pass an otherwise sound car by, but use it as a bargaining tool when the time comes to discuss the purchase price!

One model you may come across, albeit rarely, is the so-called semi-automatic 'stickshift' Beetle first offered for the 1968 model year. This unique transmission was a clever idea which never really caught on, although it is ironic that some 20 years later several other manufacturers experimented with a similar system. The semi-auto Beetle came with a gear lever, but no clutch pedal. Once the engine was started, the lever could be moved into gear and, by pressing the accelerator, the car would move away. Selecting the next gear was simply a matter of moving the lever as you would a normal manual transmission.

In all other respects, anyone unfamiliar with driving a Beetle will soon feel at home. The steering is remarkably light, thanks in part to the rearward weight bias and the large steering wheel. It is only the later 1303 models which tend to feel more clumsy at parking speeds, the problem being exacerbated when fatter wheels or tyres have been fitted. The braking systems of older cars are nothing to write home about. They are pefectly adequate for the performance of the car, nothing more, nothing less. However, do bear in mind that in modern traffic other cars can, and almost certainly will, stop fit quicker than your Beetle. Drive with this in mind and allow a little more space between you and the car in front.

European 15OO and 1600 models came with disc front brakes as standard and were all the better for it. However, note that disc brakes were never offered as standard on US-specificition Beetles, regardless of engine capacity, although it is relatively easy to upgrade to disc front brakes if you so wish.






Raising the roof



Finally, what of the hood itself? The early cars left the factory with duck hoods, a high quality, long-lasting canvas material that is expensive to replace. Later in life, an extremely strong vinyl was available as an option. Both types of hood need to be examined closely for splits and tears, but you will not need to worry about the condition of the back window for, unlike so many other makes, the Volkswagen cabriolet his a glass rear screen. However, take note that replacing the hood on a cabrio can be an expensive proposition: not only are the replacement parts costly, but this is a time-consuming job that is possibly best left to an expert.





One of the best Roadster style conversion is that made by Wizard Roadsters in England. Looking rather like an updated Hebmüller, this Wizard four-seater is well-designed and features substantial strengthening.




The hood should fold down easily - it is secured to the top of the windscreen by a pair of catches. Releasing them allows you to lift the roof up and over behind the back seat where vou can fold it away. It is a good idea to place a towel between the main folds to prevent the material from chafing against itself and wearing thin. A fitted bag was provided with all cabrios to place over the hood once it was folded down, not only to protect it, but also to stop it flapping in the wind.
The biggest drawback with the cabrio from the driver's viewpoint is the relatively poor rearward visibility. With the hood raised, the small rear window (even late-model cabrios have smaller windows than the saloons) and heavy rear three-quarters make driving in traffic slightly difficult at times. You have to remember to take extra care and have a second look in the interior before you pull out to overtake. Even with the roof folded down, the view is not much better, as the bulky hood tends to block vision. Volkswagen acknowledged this when the swivelling driver's interior was introduced in October 1952 and, later, the frame was redesigned to allow the hood to be folded further out of the line of vision.






The real thing?



This leaves us with just one more question to answer: what about the numerous 'convertible conversions' that are available? Are they worth considering? Well, it all depends on what you expect from your Beetle. Remember, the Karmann cabriolet is a well-designed car that has had more than enough strength built in to make it as solid and quiet as a saloon. Few aftermarket conversions, other than the British Wizard Roadster, leave this strength built back in and the result is a vehicle that relies too heavily on the floorpan for its strength. The inevitable consequences are excessive body movement, missaligned doors, poor handling and, in the worst cases, failed MoT tests.





When viewing a cabriolet, do not necessarily allow your decision to be swayed by accessories like whitewall tyres and chrome trim. It is far better to base your decision on overall condition and originality.




Aside from the structural rigidity, or lack of it, the other failing on most aftermarket conversions is the design of the hood. Karmann spent a lot of time ensuring that the folding hood mechanism works in a satisfactory way and that the hood itself was well-finished and draught-free. Once acain, few aftermarket conversions match up to these ideals, having more the appearance of an ill-fitting pram hood than a properly-executed design.
So, you still want to buy a Karmann cabriolet? You won't regret your decision, just as long as you bear in mind what was said at the beginning of this chapter: do not let your heart rule your head. Locating a good cabrio can seem at times like a search for the Holy Grail, but take your time and keep looking...






Most aftermarket conversions begin life as a rather down in the mouth saloon. The Beetle relies heavily on the roof for its rigidity, so beware of poorly-executed conversions which do not replace the lost strength.